· In Focus | Saint Laurent Unveils Summer 2027 Womenswear Collection: Anthony Vaccarello's Farewell Show ·

Saint Laurent's Summer 2027 womenswear show has just drawn to a close in Paris. This season's collection takes "Golden Age" as its theme, with creative director Anthony Vaccarello reinterpreting signature silhouettes — safari wear, trench coats, wrap skirts, broad-shouldered coats and bomber jackets — in strokes of gold. Through an array of materials including lame, organza, embossed lace, brocade and gold-leafed latex, he lends each piece a gilded radiance, letting classic shapes bloom with an otherworldly allure.

This season's show coincides with the tenth anniversary of creative director Anthony Vaccarello's arrival — and marks his final collection for the house. On October 9, Kering officially announced that Vaccarello will step down from his role as creative director of Saint Laurent.

A light shines all the more brightly because we know it cannot be held. What passes sometimes leaves more light than what remains. ——Anthony Vaccarello

Of the collection's 59 looks, 49 are built on a gold foundation. Whether deep gold, Byzantine gold, pale gold, Renaissance gold, matte gold, Art Deco gold, brilliant gold, or a modernist — even almost brutalist — gold, this magical, oracular color haunts every silhouette, reinterpreting the aesthetic of "the power of repetition."

I love gold; it's a magical color. When reflecting a woman, it's the color of the sun. ——Yves Saint Laurent

From the safari wear, trench coats, shirts and wrap skirts of Mr. Yves Saint Laurent's era to Vaccarello's newly conceived house classics — broad-shouldered coats, relaxed bomber jackets, and sharply tailored short suits trimmed with generous fur — every piece is reimagined by Vaccarello through a gilded lens.

A multitude of gold tones shimmer across a diverse range of materials — lame, organza, embossed lace, tulle, brocade, jacquard, metallic-finish cotton and gold-leafed latex — each revealing fresh allure in every look.

Accessories are likewise punctuated with gold, expressing maximalist luxury through minimalist design: statement gemstone filigree earrings, or gilded metal chain-structured footwear set on sinuous serpentine heels, delivering a thrill both seductive and dangerous — the very essence of Saint Laurent.

By the finale, gold recedes into black, gathering back all the light it has refracted. Velvet suits fastened with jeweled buttons embody the quintessence of Saint Laurent, while three nimbus-black evening gowns — free in structure and brimming with vitality — reflect Vaccarello's Belgian roots, bringing the show to a perfect close.